Batchawana Bay (June '05)
This was our second trip to
The Sunset Inn of Batchawana Bay, located about 45 minutes north of Sault Ste Marie, Ontario on the #17 Trans-Canada Highway. Our first vacation there was in mid June of '04 and because we had such a great time we had decided to return this year. I had pre-booked and paid for a waterfront single cabin as Angie's '04 Xmas present, so we both had a long wait since December for this vacation to arrive.Saturday 18 June
We left at 10am on Saturday 18 Jun with the goal of riding an easy 500km to Pointe Au Baril (just north of Parry Sound), where we would stay at Larry's Motel and Tavern. We took a combination of major and secondary highways in order to avoid the rush and hassle of riding through Toronto. The day's ride was pretty uneventful and relaxing, although it was cool and overcast with a few spots of rain for the first few hours. It cleared up in the afternoon and we had sunny skies and warm winds for the rest of the day.
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Just before the city of Peterborough we made a stop at the Ural dealer to see the '05 models. Unfortunately they were only open until noon and as we had rolled in at 1pm all we could do was peek in the window to see what was on the floor. There were two sidecar rigs in there but it was hard to tell which models because they sat too far inside the unlit showroom. |
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We carried on, passing through Orillia and eventually hooking up with the 400 North, where we settled down to a steady pace. We reached Larry's Tavern at around 5:30pm and after checking in to our room, we wandered over to the tavern for supper and "refreshments". |
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Larry's is a pretty neat spot with lots of ambience and good food. If you're a hockey fan there are many, many photos and memorabilia lining the walls to keep you amused and a pool table for when you get bored. Fortunately I'm easy to amuse - just give me a pitcher of cold beer and park me in front of a big screen tv with some chicken wings and I'm in my happy place. |
Sunday 19 June
Sunday morning dawned sunny but very chilly - it was only 10C and the bikes were covered in cold, wet dew. We had packed our electric vests for an occasion just like this and put them to use, but by the time we stopped for brekkie an hour later we were feeling the cold despite their warmth. But, after a few cups of coffee and an excellent meal at the Key Marina Restaurant we were ready to tackle the rest of the trip to Batchawana Bay. We figured about 7 hours on the road to cover the remaining 600km, which would put us in front of our waterfront cabin by 1pm.
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Traffic was light for most of the way and we made good time. We made an unscheduled stop in the town of Massey when we spotted this amazing metal sculpture. The detail was incredible; someone had obviously spent many hours making this masterpiece. The artist had even carved treads into the steel tires! |
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There wasn't one piece of rubber or plastic on it - everything was fabricated from steel, including the cables and spark plug wires. |
The rest of the trip went well, save for the occasional idiot cager and brainless turkey vulture wandering about the roadways. I saw a small turtle frantically gunning it across the highway just north of Sault Ste Marie; I hope he made it because there were a lot of trucks going in both directions. We had a small confrontation with a deer a little further up the road; I didn't notice it standing on the shoulder until I was almost upon it. Angie, however, had spotted it long before I did and reduced speed just in case it tried something stupid. When I finally saw it at the last minute I was so mad I flung out my arm and gave it the finger; the sudden movement startled it and it turned tail and fled back into the woods. Stupid friggin' Bambi.
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We made it to The Sunset Inn just after 1pm and parked the bikes beside Cabin 5, our home for the next week. There was a nice family from Ohio in the neighbouring cabin; they would be there for the entire week and we wouldn't have to worry about any rowdies moving in to destroy our quiet times. Bonus! |
After a quick trip to the store across the highway for some supplies, we unpacked and settled in to begin our vacation. The waterfront view was just as we had remembered from last year. And so was the water wildlife - we were treated to the sight of two families of loons, one with three babies and the other with six, slowly making their way along the river towards Lake Superior. We also saw a large crane, the usual flock of seagulls and hundreds of tiny fishies swimming about in the shallow waters. We waded in amongst them and the water was surprisingly warm; I was even inspired to do my impression of a floundering whale as I swam about rinsing off the grime from a day's ride. It looked like we were going to have a great vacation.
Monday 20 June
We slept in and ate a late brekkie before heading into Sault Ste Marie to do some grocery shopping. It's amazing how many groceries you can stuff into the saddlebags of two bikes, we had at least three days worth of supplies in there by the time we had finished. It was very hot and sunny and by the time we returned to the cabin we were pretty much done for the day because of the heat. We splashed about in the water for awhile, wandered the beach and just hung out enjoying the serenity and scenery. Towards nightfall Angie got the camera out and took a few pics of the area to paint when we returned home.
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Here's the sunset as viewed from the front deck of our cabin. That's the Batchawana River, it flows into Lake Superior, which is just to the left of that sand bar on the far side. |
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There's a small duck pond just around the corner from the cabins and about 30m in from the beach; the full moon that night was an added bonus for the photo. |
Tuesday 21 June
We decided to ride up to the town of Wawa, about 160km north of Batchawana Bay. Angie's family originated from this area and she wanted to do some genealogical research at the town library. It was another warm, sunny day but that changed as we entered the Lake Superior National Park and started climbing through the hills. We ran into several fog patches and the drop in temp was sudden and very noticeable. By the time we reached Wawa we were back into the heat and light of the summer sun. We ate lunch at Wally's Steakhouse where we met a gentleman who was returning home to Sudbury after a tour of most of the mid-eastern US on his immaculate '99 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic. Then we went to the library and rooted around their records with the assistance of the very helpful librarian. Then after refueling in town - and paying a horrendous $1.09 per litre for Premium gas - we headed back to the cabin.
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We made a stop at the Agawa Interpretive Center of Lake Superior Park. It's a very well thought out display of the area's history and well worth a look if you're ever in the area. |
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Here's the obligatory tourist shot of the entrance. I know it doesn't look like it but I'm actually very happy. Really. I'm on vacation, dammit! |
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This was taken outside on the walkway; this particular display showcased some of the fish found in the lake. This one that Angie is petting is a Sturgeon, easily one of the ugliest fish in the world. You couldn't drink one of these cute. |
We left the displays and headed back towards the cabin. It had warmed up by now and we were not quite ready to call it a day yet, so we decided to do some browsing at the local tourist traps.
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The tourism industry is a main income source for the whole northern shore of Lake Superior and there are many interesting spots along the Trans-Canada highway. This store was part of a large complex about 10km north of The Sunset Inn and features art by local Native craftsmen. |
Wednesday 22 June
The weather channel (our cabin had satellite tv!) forecasted another nice day, so after another late brekkie we decided to ride down to Sault Ste Marie and check out the bike shops and library. I was annoyed to find tiny, dirty paw prints all over the seat and gas tank of my bike when we went outside. We had a cute squirrel visit us the other day and obviously he was a Harley fan. I had bought some peanuts to feed him but after seeing the scratches on the side of the tank, not only was he not going to get any but the little bugger was off my Christmas card list now, too.
We went to Northern Cycle first, an aftermarket shop catering to Harleys and metric cruisers. Angie found a great set of saddlebags and a tail pack that suited her bike nicely and the owner cut her a good deal on them - including free shipping! We then went next door to the Kawasaki dealer to get a replacement bolt for Angie's bike; I had noticed one missing from the rear fender struts the other day and we needed a replacement ASAP as the fender was loose. The lady behind the counter was very helpful and after realising she had none in stock went to the back and took one off of a new bike. She was also kind enough to loan me the tools necessary to install it. We then went downtown to the public library so Angie could continue her genealogical search, this time with microfilm records. After that we decided to head back to the cabin with a stop for lunch somewhere along the way.
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About 20 minutes north of the city we saw an interesting looking sign advertising Joseph's Homestead And Inn on Anderson Rd, so we decided to check it out. It was a very unique place, a former buffalo ranch recently converted to an Inn and restaurant. It was a renovation still in progress but showed a lot of promise. The food was great and very reasonably priced. |
We made it back to the cabin just in time for a much needed nap after which we spent the rest of the evening sitting on the porch waiting for the loons and other wildlife to make their nightly appearances. And what a show - we had both loon families drift by, saw many large fish jumping about in the deeper waters and watched a Kingfisher bird do its thing. It was perched on a tree branch overhanging the water about 100m down the shoreline; every few minutes it would launch, fly up to about 15m, hover for a few seconds and then nose-dive straight down into the water. It would pop up a few seconds later and return to the tree branch but we couldn't tell if it ever caught anything or not. By 9pm the waters were absolutely calm and we were then treated to the sight of three families of geese come sailing in like a mini armada, headed p the Batchawana River. Unfortunately, they were out of the limited range of our digital camera but our neighbours in the next cabin were out on the shoreline snapping away with their telephoto lens equipped 35mm cameras, so at least someone was able to record the event.
Thursday 23 June
The day didn't start out too promising as it was rainy with very strong winds. We decided to do some much needed laundry at the on site Laundromat and see if the weather would improve later on. The plan was to rent a canoe and paddle up the Batchawana River in search of wildlife, but only if the waters were calm and the sun shining.
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I had to move the bikes behind the cabin because the winds were so strong, but things gradually settled down and just before noon the skies began to clear. |
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We grabbed a canoe and off we went. There was a great assortment of birds flitting about the river but we had a hard time getting any of them to stay still long enough to get their photo. This is as close as we could get to three ducks before they took off. |
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In fact, although we saw lots of interesting ducks, Kingfishers, loons and other birds we just could not get close enough to any of them to get a good picture. I dunno, maybe it was me that kept scaring them off? |
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On the return trip we spotted a large flock of geese swimming along the shoreline, so we quietly steered closer to get their photo. They saw us coming, of course, and had all the fluffy little goslings well hidden by the time we arrived. |
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We returned to the camp 3 hours later and snapped this shot of the Trans-Canada highway as we went under the bridge. |
Although I had remembered to slap on some insect repellent prior to leaving, I had forgotten about sunscreen and my legs and arms were a bright red by the time we returned. Angie had remembered the sunscreen but not the insect repellent, so she got a nice tan but was harassed by several large deer flies throughout the journey; they seemed fascinated by her blonde hair. The attention got worse when I gave her the bug juice I had brought along, it seemed to act more as a perfume than a repellant to them.
We were too tired to do anything else after supper, so we just sat with our drinks and watched the night wind down on the riverfront. But it soon became apparent that my sunburn was worse then I'd thought - I was in agony and no amount of soothing creams, Ibuprofen or Jack Daniels were of any help; my legs were on fire.
Friday 24 June 2005
I didn't sleep well and wasn't in the best of moods when I awoke early in the morning. I made some coffee and went outside to sit on the deck and watch morning arrive in the camp. I had left some peanuts on the railing for the little squirrel that had crawled all over my Harley the other day (ok, ok, so I'm a softie) and they had disappeared overnight.
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So I put some more in the same spot and sat waiting with my coffee... and shortly afterwards was rewarded with a visit from the little fella. He was a little shy at first but the peanuts were just too tempting and he finally scuttled onto the railing in front of me. |
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He scarfed them down, cautiously watching me the whole time. They were gone in no time and, after a short search for more, so was he. But his antics had put me in a much better frame of mind and I was ready to face the day. |
Unfortunately, my body wasn't. The pain of the sunburn was getting worse so I hobbled across the highway to the store and bought some burn ointment; it helped a bit but I was still pretty cranky for the rest of the day. Angie had mentioned that the drive chain on her bike was loose again so I took a few minutes to adjust it, then we rode up the highway to the Voyageur's Lodge for lunch.
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It's a nice little spot with very good food - I recommend their Fish-wich sandwich, made with fresh Lake Trout and served with kettle chips. |
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This is the sign at the exit of their parking lot. You know you're in Northern Ontario when... |
They offer an adventure tour where you can paddle about for 7 days in a replica voyageur canoe with 8-10 other people just as silly as you. They take you down an old fur trader's route and you live the life of a Voyageur, paddling all day, sleeping under the stars at night and eating authentic food like bannock and fresh fish. Not my idea of a good time, especially since no beer is allowed for the duration of the trip.
By the time we finished lunch the skies were looking suspiciously dark to the west, but we decided to risk a trip in that direction to The Canadian Carver, as Angie wanted to buy something she had seen there the other day. As it was only 4km away we decided to risk getting wet; it's not like we've never ridden in the rain before. Of course, it started raining as soon as we got there but it was only a light drizzle at first, so we had enough time to make the purchase and return to the cabin without getting soaked. But five minutes later, the skies opened up and it POURED for a good 40 minutes. The rest of the day was overcast, drizzly and cool so, seeing as how it was our last day there, we decided to just relax and watch all the loons frolicking about in the shallow waters in front of our cabin while the clock ticked away the hours until we had to head back home.
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Besides, with legs like this I wasn't keen on wandering about, anyway and needed some recovery time. |
Saturday 25 June
All too soon our vacation had come to an end and it was time to head for home. We decided to do the 1,100km journey in one day, so we were up early and on the road by 7am. It was a hot, smoggy trip and the 36C heat had baked the brains of most of the cagers, making them even more stupid than usual. We had a few close calls and witnessed the usual acts of idiocy, which did nothing to help my cranky mood. A couple hours into the trip I started feeling some pretty nasty pain in both shins, so at one of the gas stops I ducked into the washroom to check on my sunburn. Because the wind had been flapping my pantlegs against my shins, it had created large blisters on the front of them. I went back to the bike, grabbed a pocketknife and a tube of Polysporin from the saddlebags and went back to the washroom. I spent the next few minutes with my pants around my ankles, jabbing at the blisters with the knife and wiping them up with a wad of toilet paper... I was very thankful that nobody else came in while I was doing this!
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But the problem now was that the wind kept rattling my pantlegs and the blisters kept refilling... the action of getting off the bike at a gas/rest stop would rupture them and I'd hobble around with these wet spots on my jeans. It's a good thing the blisters weren't on my inner thighs or I really would have got some strange looks. |
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As the day wore on the pain became more intense; the last couple of stops were pure agony and I was not a nice guy to be around. Just ask Angie - I snapped at her a couple times over trivial things... and felt like a jackass afterwards. When we finally rolled into our garage 13 hours after leaving our cabin, it was all I could do to get off the bike without collapsing. This pic shows why. Moral of the story - ALWAYS WEAR SUNSCREEN!!! |
But despite this stupidity on my part, we had traveled over 3,000km in one week and had a great time doing it!
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